Lunes de Aguas

The following day was Monday. Most people start the week on Monday. However, in Salamanca there just happened to a holiday, called Lunes de Aguas, so everything was closed for the celebration. Lunes de Aguas, has quite an interesting history. Way back when in the 16th century King Felipe II disgusted by the amount of prostitutes in Salamanca issued a degree ordering all the prostitutes to leave the city during lent. The prostitutes could return the Monday after Easter. As history goes the prostitutes returned and were welcomed back into the city with open arms. University students would wait by the banks of the Rio Tormes equipped with festive boats, food and plenty of spirits to bring their favorite companions back into the city. Today university students continue this tradition. However, prostitutes don’t actually cross the river and come back into the city. The tradition of eating a Salamanca specialty, Hornazo, still continues though. The best way I can describe Hornazo is by comparing it to a meat pie. Basically it is a pastry stuffed with ham, sausages. I am not a huge fan of the Hornazo, but I did have a bit to celebrate the tradition.

The JMU crowd made their way down to the river on Monday afternoon to relax by the Rio Tormes for the day and celebrate Lunes de Aguas. We had a slight break down of communication about when we suppose to go the river. Madre told us in the afternoon. She made us what we though was a lunch and it seemed like she was sending us on our way, but as we were preparing to leave she said “No, no, no necesitan comer la comida.” Madre had made us a siesta lunch in addition to our packed lunch. Victoria who I ran into on the street was waiting in my room so we could head down to the river together. I quickly wolfed down my lunch, secretly bring half to Victoria, and then we headed down for the river. Madre had packed us her typical carb bocadilla, which is Spanish tortilla on a huge baguette. In addition she gave Hornazo and fruit.

Victoria and I walked down to the River, where we met the rest of the crowd on the Puente Romano. We all walked down to the banks and joined the celebrating students. The banks were crowded with people playing games, strumming guitars, eating hornazo, drinking beer and wine and just having a relaxing day enjoying the sun. There were several random dogs running through the crowds and several times I caught the scent of pot wafting through the air. Kelsey’s parents were still in town so they joined in with the festivities. We all sat around and played catch phrase and ate hornazo. Kelsey’s dad was hilarious and I could tell he was fully enjoying the Salamancan Holiday. We stayed down by the river until 7:30 or so. I walked backed into town with Victoria, Mary and the other Allison. We stopped at the Plaza and ate our bocadillas before heading back to our houses. When we got back to the house Madre asked Sarah and I if we wanted any dinner. Still stuffed from the hornazo, bocadillas and wine we said, “No Gracias estamos llenas de todo la comida y el vino”. Madre did not understand how we could be full, but told us if we changed our minds she would cook something for us.

It was starting to set in that we had less than two weeks left in this exquisite city. The group was divided between people who were ready to leave and those that wanted to stay forever. At the time I was in the camp that wanted to go home. In fact I was ready to leave after I returned from Italy. Looking back now I know where all those feelings came from, the internet had been horrible the past month and was fed up with feeling isolated. I was also sick of Spanish food. After experiencing the Italy cuisine, Spanish food just sucked (for lack of better words). I did not know this then but as soon as I was back in the states I would be longing to go back to my beloved Salamanca.